Yes, definitely. He showed a mix of through hole, SMD, Manhattan and Wirewrap techniques proving that he knows what is the best approach for each building need. I also liked how he used copper foil to add ground planes to perf boards. That is also used in non-cheap electric guitars to screen pickups slots from induction of mains hum.
Also, I couldn't recommend more the use of leaded solder, which works so much better than leaded one.
I also use standard solder at home but we used lead-free solder at work when I had was in a hardware engineering org and it really didn't seem to cause trouble. I think people who don't have good success at first with lead-free are probably using the wrong tip size, have set their iron to the wrong temperature, or have an iron with poor tip temperature control. You see the same troubles when beginners use leaded solder, but people forget about those early experiences.
If you’re new to soldering, a good “tip” is to use a copper coil rather than a sponge to clean the tip. And keep the tip tinned (keep adding a bit of solder and jabbing it off in the coil.) this prevents thermal shock and prolongs the life of the iron’s tip!
If you have a tip that is too small, then you will not have enough heat, i.e. thermal flow, getting to your solder joint. Note that heat is different from temperature! A bic lighter is hotter than your oven but it will not roast a turkey.
Symptoms of too small a tip - it will take too long to heat the solder joint. Pads and traces can lift and other things thermally connected to the joint may be damaged just like they will if the tip is too hot, but your flux may not activate and your solder will flow badly (or not at all) or make a cold joint like the tip is too cold.
Too large a tip and you can't do fine work or you rapidly heat everything around your part to soldering temperature.
